Cecil-tucky. Known for corn, the Cecil County Fair, Fair
Hill park, deer, deer hunting, deer jerky, and horses.
Iwate. Known for apples, oni kenbai, shishi odori, fabulous
onsen, Geto Resort, taro, croquettes, beef and horses.
What a weekend! The Chagu Chagu Umako is a horse festival
(hence the “Umako”) to honor the horses of Iwate after rice planting season.
The “chagu chagu” is onomatopoeia for the sound of the bells around the horses’
necks. The horses are dressed in traditional ornaments, shawls, saddles and the
crowning jewel: an adorable child strapped to the saddle, waving at people
along the street.
Families parade the horses from the base of Mt. Iwate in
Takizawa Village 15 kilometers through the city of Morioka. The 200 year old
tradition is a huge draw for the Japanese and foreigners alike, including yours
truly. People flock in droves by train, bus and car to Morioka to cheer for the
horses and shower them with love and affection: Thank you, Uma-san, for another
year of rice!
When you consider how significant rice is to Japan, that’s
actually a pretty legit statement.
The full day event closed off a large portion of Morioka so
the horses and farmers could proceed through the city safely. It was like
watching living history: a scene from ancestral Japan, grandly parading through
concrete, neon and iron modernity. Cotton and silk clothes, straw sandals and
hats and the invariable sound of “chagu chagu:” it was really an incredible
sight!
People are so devoted to supporting the 100 odd horses
(there were some foals too, so I don’t know if they count) that they follow the
procession from Morioka Station all the way to the end of line at the other end
of the city: a total walk time of about two hours! Masses of people slowly walk
through town to take part in the festival.
Along the way, the horses took a break. Children were
allowed to feed them carrots while the animals and people alike rested halfway
through the event. There were vendors through the parade route as well,
including shaved ice cones for the children and beer for the adults!
SNACK TIME! |
Patrick, Hoi Ming and I found a nice shady spot to camp out
towards the end of the route. Hoi Ming is a real trooper: she arrived in
Morioka earlier in the day by train and was one of the throng that followed the
horses through the city. We watched each and every horse go by, admiring the
beauty of the pageantry and the sheer size of the horses! The children on their
backs looked like ornately dressed fleas in comparison!
This guy was cool enough to slow down and let me get a picture! |
I love how the Japanese hold such high regard for respect
and honor and how that carries over not just from the professional working
world to domestic life. And that includes festivals like Chagu Chagu. After a
long rice planting season, the horses are not simply given a sugar cube and a
pat on the butt. There is an event to honor their work!
That’s a pretty effective work incentive.
This weekend was my sugar cube. A couple days out of town,
sleeping in, watching a matsuri and the finishing touch: pizza and a puzzle!
But not just any pizza and puzzle: teriyaki pizza and a Totoro puzzle!
Small but surprisingly daunting...the puzzle, not me! |
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