When I was about 14, my family went to the American mid-west
on summer vacation. On one misty day, we drove out to the middle of nowhere to
hike to a waterfall called Fairy Falls. The map showed the trail was easy enough
to find and the hike wasn’t too difficult.
So we set off with high hopes and
dry socks.
This weekend, I went camping with friends at Lake Towada
in/around Aomori Prefecture. Patrick, Hoiming, Kelly and I stuffed Patrick’s
car full of gear on Saturday morning and met Yoko, Scott and their friend Kate
at Yoko’s apartment.
As the saying goes, “All roads lead to Rome,” but in Japan, “Route
4 leads to everywhere.” We took this for granted because no sooner was our
caravan on the road than our car was separated from Yoko, Kate and Scott.
Instead, the four of us ended up on a grand adventure to Towadako. And by “grand
adventure,” of course I mean we took a wrong turn and the next time we checked
the GPS, we were an hour north of the lake and headed straight for Hokkaido!
But thanks to good company and some car ride games, we found our way to
beautiful and massive Lake Towada by the time the sun came out. We met up with
everyone else at the camp site and then back tracked our little voyage back up
the winding road we had just taken through the woods.
Where Fairy Falls was a figment of the imagination, the
falls of Towada are conveniently located along the road with soft, silent paths
covered in polished roots and decomposing pine needles. All along the road were
shoulders where cars could pull off and deposit the passengers for a short time
as they walked along the streams and gazed at the loud and broad or the thin
and trickling waterfalls.
Looking at the moss covered trees and the giant ferns, the
forest felt prehistoric. Even the sound the passing cars was muffled over the
sound of the water, absorbed by the trees.
Our last destination for the “hike” that day was a calm
point of the stream that runs past a curious natural stone structure. A large
flat rock leans across two boulders and rests, supported by an ancient tree.
This is said to be the lair of the ghost of a woman who reputedly attacks men.
My theory is she’s a little bitter about her …ahem…living
situation, but relax, honey: a few wreaths here, a couple tastefully located
shells and pinecones there and we can Martha Stewart up your depressing stone lean-to
into a charming haunting nook!
After that, we traipsed on back to camp and set up. Of
course, REAL camping means a tent, a fire, sleeping on the ground or under the
stars…I have no love in my heart for campers or trailers. I’m a roughin’ it
kind of girl, through and through!
So I wasn’t sure what to expect with this
campsite. Lucky for us, there was a wonderful surprise waiting for us at the
site: two already-set-up Saharan excursion size and style tents on large wooden
platforms! Spacious enough for about five people each and already equipped with
pads on the floor, these were pretty luxurious tents! I felt like I was camping
with Ron, Hermione and Harry!
But even more luxurious than that was the food. Oh the food!
Yoko prepared and brought everything. She brought a grill and everything that
went on it, we devoured like barbarians: lamb, chicken, beef, more chicken,
shrimp pizza, mushrooms, peppers, onion…every morsel disappeared! As did every
drop of life sustaining nectar we brought with us.
This weekend, I discovered blueberry sake. Deliciousness!
Once the sun went down, it was time for the show part of the
dinner and show. We’d bought a bag…no,not a bag, a sack of fireworks! We weren’t
sure what each thing would do, so shot in the dark, Patrick pulled out one and
passed it my way. I looked at a picture of a large cannon and promptly
requested another one. We settled on a short cartridge, and sent Patrick up the
hill to light it. We were actually pretty impressed: we lit off three fireworks,
one of which stayed on the ground and burned like a torch and two that went up.
It was after the second airborne firework that one of the proprietors came
trotting up to our campsite. 
It’s a good thing there were so many of us cute girls there
because while the man did scold us heartily, he didn’t call the cops and just
requested anything we lit stay in the firepit…and nothing that shoots into the
air. At least, I like to think our cuteness was a factor. So we passed the rest
of the night with champagne (because why not?) and sparklers. Hey, as long as
something’s burning. Fire tends to be a crowd pleaser.
This morning, Patrick, Hoiming, Kelly and I went into town
for some sightseeing. Fun fact: Aomori is Apple Central for Japan. We
celebrated the revelation with apple flavored soft serve…which was delicious!
Not sour apple, sweet frosty apple!
We also took a relaxing walk along the
boardwalk on the crystal blue lake and into the woods. In said woods to the
right of the path is a series of caves with paper talismans hung across the
entrances. Each cave has a wooden sign indicating the presence of a god (kami)
including a sun, mountain, wind and gold god.
At the end of the path is a
beautiful shrine. We walked back to the town along the beach after a little
toe-dabbling. If there was ever an argument regarding the effects of
agricultural run-off on natural bodies of water, Lake Towada is exquisite proof
of the possibilities if a lake, river or what have you is left unexposed to
human interference. Even with the presence of ferry boats on the lake, the
water is pristine!
Cold, fresh-water, and every color from teal to navy, it’s
the most beautiful lake I have ever seen…Crater Lake has serious competition!
And the Great Salt Lake should be ashamed of itself.
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