Saturday, April 4, 2015

Where in the World is Marta Senn-Diego? Part Ten: Wat's Up, Doc?



Saturday morning, and I awoke not knowing where I was. I had to remind myself that I was in Bangkok. Bangkok! And I had a lot to do in the next 12 hours: explore some temples, or “wats,” buy a new phone (Japanese provider, Au, doesn’t unlock phones for international use. Bullcrap!), and order a tailor made dress for my cousin’s wedding in June. 

When I arrived in Thailand the previous day, it was only mid afternoon and 33 degrees Celsius, so I wanted to get out early and start walking while the weather was cool. I was on my way down the sidewalk when a tutut driver asked where I was going. I pointed on the map to Wat Po and the royal palace. 

“No,” he said. “Now they’re having prayers and ceremonies. You should go in the afternoon.”

Then he took a pen and my map and showed me what I should see instead in the northern part of town including the temple of the great standing Buddha, the lucky Buddha for my traveling, Wat Saket, also known as the Golden Mountain, and the Thai Factory for my dress order.

Before I could ask for the best route, he went on to tell me that if I took a tuttut, the driver would take me to all these places…for free! Certain tuttut taxis are government-sponsored, so during tourist season, they get a coupon for free gas for showing yokels like me the beautiful city! I couldn’t believe my good luck! He got a tuttut for me and together, the driver and I spent the next few hours stopping at every place marked on my map. 


I saw gold foil-flecked Buddhas, Bangkok from above at Wat Saket, people cooking as well as fixing cars in the streets (not just changing tires: dismantling engines and realigning bumpers), and absolutely stunning architecture.

Pei, the man who gave me all that valuable advice, also told me that if I wanted to go to Chiang Mai, because many people will go to their provinces for Songkran New Year Festival, I needed to book a train or bus today! I didn’t realize! So we stopped at a travel agent’s office.

The buses were all fully booked, but I was lucky enough to get the last train ticket leaving on Sunday. Unfortunately, it leaves in the evening, so I had to cancel my hostel in Chiang Mai and let the Elephant Nature Park know I’d arrive at their office around 8:15 am to pay the balance and drive north to the park with them. I’ve been a pain in their ass, I’m sure, but I hope they understand the issues with transportation. 

High season and all that.

I had to sacrifice a large chunk of Baht for that ticket, but these things can’t be avoided. Another small wad
went into something much more fun: two tailored, custom dresses! The Thai Factory tailor sews
original suits and clothes for women. This business is all over Thailand, but the Factory was recommended to
be by Pei, so I went for it.

 I was looking a haggard mess, but they treated me like royalty and the clerk was very helpful
in choosing a pattern and color for my cousin’s wedding. And for the price, we decided could afford a
second dress made of Thai silk! On Sunday, I’ll go back for the fitting, but then they’ll make the dresses and
mail them free to America! 

View from the Golden Mountain
After all that, I had to go into the heart of Bangkok. I needed to visit the more urban, high-tech center for a new iPhone. But it was too far for the tuttut, so what’s a girl to do? Take a river taxi, of course! Jump into a long, low, motorized boat and off you go up one of the several rivers through the city! Before you know it, you’re in the throbbing heart of the city at the base of the greatest shopping malls in Bangkok, especially for phones. A much larger chunk of cash out the window, but this phone can accept international SIM cards, so boo on you, Au! 

I had a delicious lunch to cure my hunger pains: stir fried rice with shrimp and salmon in a baked pineapple and another coconut water. For 300 Baht. $1 = 33 Baht. Yeah. 

Another river taxi delivered me to the western part of town again. I spent some time stretching my legs and walking to Wat Phra Kaew, famed for its graceful golden spires, and Wat Po to see the giant reclining Buddha!
 
Sated on wats for the day, I hit the street again. I passed a tuttut driver asking two girls where they were going. They happened to be going my way, Khaosan Road. He offered them 150 Baht. They turned him down flat. He then turned to me and asked where I was going. I told him Khaosan and he gave me the same fare charge. Feeling gutsy, I hemmed and asked for 100. He balked and said 150. 

“Okay, sorry,” I said. “I’ll just walk.”

He immediately submitted and for 100 Baht, I saved myself enough money to get a papaya juice and pad thai dinner. 

Check “learn to haggle” off my bucket list!

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