Gion by Day

I won’t belabor this. I didn’t see a geisha. 

When I was in Arashiyama, there was a whole fleet of rickshaw drivers. Most carried tourists, but one man was pulling two young women with him. 

Don’t get crazy. They’re not maiko, they’re not geisha. Here’s a hint: look at her fingernails. 

I read about this before I went to Kyoto, but some kimono shops will actually dress Japanese tourists and locals like geisha for the sake of the tourism. While not a bad gimmick, it’s just not the same. The girls get to look fancy and be the center of attention, and tourists like me walk away with a nifty memento. 

After Arashiyama, I went to Gion to seek out the real deal. When you get off the subway and emerge again into daylight, you’re on the western shore of a wide stream. 

On this side, a long line of shoulder-to-shoulder restaurants sits with large, wide terraces for outdoor dining. 

Cross the long stone bridge and you’re officially in Gion. The big, famous kabuki theatre is directly across the street from the stream. When I was there, there was already a line for that evening’s kabuki performance. Large posters were hanging from the building’s face, showing the extravagant costumes and the dramatic make-up the actors wear. 

It takes a little walking until you find yourself in natural habitat of the geisha: the tea houses. Some of the oldest tea houses in Kyoto are on this congested little street packed with tourists and taxis. 

As I was walking along between all the old tea houses, I ended up behind this older American couple and a young American man. I assume the younger guy was here on his own either as a student or teacher or nomad and was just giving this older couple a little tour. He knew his stuff, at least enough to know his way around and to explain "These are old tea houses, some of the oldest in Kyoto, where geisha entertain. Of course, they're really expensive to get into, so I wouldn't be in one, haha!"

The woman then came out with this little gem: "Oh, geisha. They're the prostitutes, right?"

I could have slapped her. Geisha are NOT prostitutes. Prostitutes are prostitutes. Geisha are professional entertainers who study and train for years to go from novices to maiko to full premier geisha. Often, girls leave their families and are cut off from them to pursue training. You basically turn your back on friends and family to become an artisan of this world of mystery, intrigue and beauty. Geisha belong to a world and class of their own: their otherworldly makeup and dress sort of evoke another dimension. They're to be respected and awed. 

The guy had more class than me, however, and just laughed it off and told her "No, no they're not." 

As you walk further and further, something envelopes you. While the old and the new layer each other like lattice work, you can feel how old the neighborhood is. You forget the lights and color of Tokyo and the blast of a shinkansen passing, and you’re in the dense, composed and mysteriously shrouded world. 

Maiko stage for performances

These women were just walking out of a little cafe when I snapped this

 I found my way to the southern-most part of Gion-cho and found Kennin-ji, THE oldest zen temple in Kyoto. Approximately 800 years old. Mind blown. Seriously, Kennin-ji is where it all started.

The founder was a priest named Yousai. He was ordained at just 14 and during his religious Tendai studies, traveled to China twice. China, as we all know, started Buddhism about 2500 years ago, so when Yousai arrived, things were well-established and oh so appealing when you find that the Buddhist believe that the suffering we feel in life is transcended through wisdom and compassion. Be it, feel it, transcend it.

Thunder and wind gods of Kennin-ji

The Zen Buddhists Yousai met were also drinking this crazy thing called “green tea,” and Yousai brought it back to Japan and made the practice wildly popular. He became known the father of the tea ceremony because of his enthusiasm for spreading the green tea culture.

It’s a large temple complex full of miniature karesansui and shoji screens and sumie paintings of birds and cloud dragons. If you slip on some plastic slippers, you can cross from the main hall to the Hatto or the Dharma Hall and find the most beautiful ceiling in Japan. The Twin Dragons!

After all that, I checked the time. I didn’t want to be late to meet my parents, but I still wanted to try and see one more thing: the Ryozen Kwanon Tribute to the Unknown Soldier. It sits at the base of the eastern mountains and commemorates the unknown fallen soldiers who died for their country in pursuit of world peace.

 The biggest draw is the beautiful Buddha of compassion, Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara. There is also a large, brass ball or “jewel” in front of the shrine. You place your right hand on the ball and as you walk around it three times, you make a wish. 

I wish to return!