It's that time of year. The holiday season is heavy upon Japan...or at least it was, however briefly. You see, Christmas in Japan is "for lovers," as I'm led to believe. Sure, there are wreaths, little fake Christmas trees and tinsel tinsel tinsel! But Christmas songs aren't monopolizing the shopping centers and red-suited Wilford Brimley look-alikes aren't standing at every corner.
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Even the snowpeople have dates! |
But the Japanese humor Western interests for the days leading up to Christmas, but it isn't the lights-sugar-cookie-and-consumer-gasm that it is for America.
Case in point: my last lesson for the third year students was to have them write a letter to Santa asking for three things. I may as well have asked them to explain relative theory in Russian. It's a distinct culture difference, but it's also because in Japan, they don't associate Christmas and gift-giving. They just don't. End of story.
So what happens every December? Where does all the stress and tension and angst of the year go if not into tissue paper stuffed boxes?
Why, bonenkai, of course!
Bonenkai, or "Forget the Year Parties," are the perfect last ditch effort to get some massive partying on before the new year begins. It is exactly what it sounds like: a party for the sake of forgetting the bad, ugly and worse than ugly that happened in the previous year. Companies reserve a venue (izakaya, restaurant, hotel, onsen...) and everyone gears up for a night to forget.
The teachers of なん中学校 invited me to join them for their bonenkai. And while the fee is no laughing matter, (13,000 yen) it's apparently a pretty standard rate for everything that's included. We were booked at the Yamayurino-yado ryokan outside of Hanamaki City. The best way I can describe a ryokan is to say it's basically an onsen hotel. Most onsen visits are a one day affair, in for a bath, maybe stay for a meal, then go. However, should you desire, most onsen themselves are also equipped for overnight stays. Pricier places also offer fabulous multi-course meals and breakfast. Modern ryokan also have Western or Japanese style rooms to choose!
Yamayurino-yado is in the hills past Hanamaki City, quiet, sulfury and beautiful. Inside, you're ushered to a sitting area while a woman prepares tea and a snack for you. When you're ready to go, you're escorted to your shared room to put down your things, then taken to a display table where you choose your yukata and sash. Some people wear the yukata all night, but between the dining and drinking, I didn't get to slip into mine until past midnight, but we'll get to that later.
Speaking of food, Yamayurino-yado's dining facilities are unique. Outside of the banquet room, we removed our slippers to avoid damaging the tatami floors. Inside, there were two large tables, each with two irori (sunken hearths) embedded in the table. Charcoal fires were already red hot and ready to go. We took numbers that determined our seats, where we could enjoy looking at beautiful plates of tidbit foods.
They even had little Christmas presents and plastic bells that said "Merry Christmas." It was a sweet touch.
The second year teachers organized this bonenkai, so they played Masters of Ceremony. After a few short words from a few teachers, the vice principal and principal, both in matching yukata, gave their own speeches.
I'll just say it, the principal is a suave looking man. He has thick, wavy grey and white hair, a round face and pronounced cheekbones and a chuckling voice. He's also a man of few words, would rather have a lighthearted one on one with a teacher than drunkenly roar with a few other teachers. He's like Japanese James Bond, with less sexual tension and shoot 'em up and more personable ambiance.
So anyway, Bond-san finished, everyone shouted "kanpai" and with every clink of wine and beer glasses, we were one step closer to forgetting the year.
Then came the food. Everything was traditional, Japanese style cuisine including charred bream (shioyaki), sashimi, savory mochi, grilled scallops in the shell with butter (hotate yaki) and oh my god so much more! For the duration of the bonenkai, everyone eats course after course and drinks drinks drinks, filling each other's glasses again and again. The atmosphere is very cheerful and everyone is all smiles.
While we ate, we also played games. For one, we played a categories style of giant Jenga. The blocks were cardboard boxes with trivia questions inside. A teacher picked out a box, was asked the question within, took a shot at answering and placed the box on top of the teetering tower. I got sort of lucky with my question:
"What is the second highest mountain in the world."
I had no idea, but I took an educated guess with Kilamanjaro.
BZZT. Apparently, it's Mt. Kenya. Now I know and I'll be heading to Jeopardy as soon as I get back to America.
At least it was a question I could attempt, right? The teachers were all very friendly, especially the younger guys (both married, calm down) volunteering me to go up to be first for the next game. This one involved sticking plastic swords into slots in a plastic barrel and avoid triggering a bearded pirate who would go rocketing into the air.
Interesting how both of these games are stressful as hell!
Anyway, if you don't trigger Black Beard, you get a paper goodie bag. We all tore into our bags and compared our gifts. There were bubble bath bars, snacks, those "break and shake" hot packs for your hands and feet, and I got an eye mask you can freeze or heat!
By then, I was starting to feel pretty full. Bond-san called the dinner to a close and we sang the school song. OK, they sang, I read and alternately murmured the kanji and shouted the hiragana with everyone else. After that, everyone split into groups. Some people went to bathe in the hot springs, I joined a group for an after party. We sat around a table stacked with alcohol and snacks and talked for a few hours. The science teacher and I conversed in Japanese and English about just about every topic under the sun. My grandmother Haruko came up naturally, but briefly.
My 12, that "full" feeling was about 20x "80% Full" status and I was debating bathing or not. But the other female teacher in the room invited me to go with her and I accepted. I would be missing out on the full experience otherwise, and I love onsen!
There are three types of spas in Yamayurino-yado including an indoor bath that looks like a standard hot tub inside, an outdoor bath and an indoor stone grotto. We went for the grotto. The sulfury water was hot but perfectly so. For some reason, small apples instead of the standard oranges floated in the water, (not for eating, of course, you silly billy) and barely discernible through the steam at the fountainhead was a clay figure of a cat. Depending on where you sat, he was either grinning at you or stoically guarding your bathing.
We chatted lightly in Japanese and played with the apples. She got out before me and went in the changing room to tidy up before bed.
I took advantage of the privacy and went to a long step at one end of the tub across from the cat. Between the alcohol, the light sulfur smell and the hot water, I let myself float in a euphoric haze while I looked at the cat.
Everyone needs to experience this level of zenfulness.
Back in the changing room, I wrapped up in my dark blue yukata and tied a bright yellow sash around myself. And yes, I wore it to bed. It wasn't uncomfortable either. Less ideal are the large, hard, bean-stuffed pillows for sleep. I will never understand these...it's easier to sleep sans pillow. Curled up on my futon, I didn't drift off so much as I was dragged off ass first by the rip tide of sleep.
This morning, we all dressed and went down to the same banquet room for a traditional Japanese breakfast of rice, miso soup, tea, juice, grilled salmon, tofu and a few unidentifiables. One dark substance was spicy and a little sticky/slimy. I had a couple bites and discreetly called it quits, moving on instead to my honeydew "dessert."
And with that, the bonenkai was over. I couldn't ask for a better way to spend my first Japanese Christmas than fat, happy and bathing with strangers. I feel like I can easily move on to the next year, though I don't think I'll ever forget everything that's happened.
And I wouldn't have it any other way!